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Asian Brightening Secret: Intensive Night Repair

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By: TOM BRANNA

Editor

Asian Brightening Secret: Intensive Night Repair
Ingredients
%

Phase A

  • Deionized water
  • 79.66

0

  • Disodium EDTA (Fluka)
  • 0.02
  • Carbopol* Ultrez 20 Polymer (Noveon) (Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer)
  • 0.50
  • Glucam E-20 Humectant (Noveon) (Methyl gluceth-20)
  • 1.00
  • Glycerin (SinoPharm)
  • 2.00
  • Glucamate SSE-20 Emulsifier (Noveon) (Methyl glucose sesquistearate)
  • 2.00
  • Schercemol* DISM Ester (Noveon) (Diisostearyl malate)
  • 4.00
  • Schercemol* DISD Ester (Noveon) (Diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate)
  • 3.00
  • Schercemol* 318 Ester (Noveon) (Isopropyl isostearate)
  • 3.00
  • Schercemol* MM Ester (Noveon) (Myristyl myristate)
  • 1.00
  • Lipovol J (Lipo Chemicals) (Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) seed oil)
  • 0.50
  • Copherol 1250 (Cognis) (Tocopheryl acetate)
  • 0.10
  • BHT (Qingdao Hengfeng (China))
  • 0.02
  • Extrapone Angelica Root (Symrise) (Angelica polymorpha sinensis root extract, propylene glycol, water)
  • 0.30
  • Extrapone Licorice Root 607646 (Symrise) (Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root (extract, propylene glycol, glucose, water)
  • 0.40
  • Phenonip (Clariant) (Phenoxyethanol, methyl-, ethyl-, butyl-, propyl-, (and) isobutylparaben)
  • 0.50

Phase B

  • Glucate SS Emulsifier (Noveon)(Methyl glucose sesquistearate)
  • 1.00

Phase C

  • Sodium hydroxide (18%)
  • 0.70**

Phase D

  • Vegetol Ginseng GR 471 Hydro (Gattefossu00e9) (Panax ginseng root extract, propylene glycol, water)
  • 0.30**

Procedure

Phase A: Add Disodium EDTA into deionized water.     While mixing, disperse Carbopol* Ultrez 20 Polymer into the water phase.  Add Glucam* E-20 Humectant and glycerin to batch. Heat batch to 70°C. PART B:  In a separate vessel large enough to contain entire batch, mix ingredients and heat to 70-80°C. At 70-80°C, slowly add Phase A to Phase B.  Allow the emulsification to complete by mixing the batch for 5-10 minutes at 70°C. Begin cooling batch under continuous moderate mixing.  When batch has cooled to 50-60°C, neutralize with Phase C. Mix until uniform. Continue cooling batch. When batch has cooled to 45-50°C, add Phase D ingredients in order, one at a time to batch. Mix until uniform. Continue mixing batch until it has cooled to 35-40°C.

Properties

Appearance: Soft White to Off-white Emulsion
pH: 6.25 – 6.75
Viscosity (mPa·s):***    35,000 – 40,000
Yield Value (dyn/cm²):  2,700 – 3,500
Stability:  Passed 3 months @ 45°C, 2 months @ 25°C, 5 cycles freeze/thaw

***Brookfield RVT or DV-II @ 20 rpm, 25°C, #6 spindle, measured at 24 hours

More Information

This night cream contains angelica root and ginseng, two ingredients thought to provide concentrated nutrition and to restore one to a balanced condition.  Carbopol* Ultrez 20 Polymer and a blend of Schercemol* Esters together provide a rich, creamy and cushiony skinfeel throughout the application experience.